I have just gotten back from the most amazing vacation - I spent four days on two stunning beaches, some of the best I have ever seen. And yes, I tried surfing!
Since my placement ended last week, I decided to spend my final days here relaxing and enjoying more of Ghana. My friend Kelty and I met from different regions of the country on Saturday afternoon in Takoradi (about 4 hours east of Accra) and we headed to a hotel called Safari Beach Resort. Safari Beach is only 30 minutes or so away from Takoradi, but it took a little longer than expected to get to the beach, since we were working hard to negotiate a reasonable taxi fare. In fine form, we always pull out a few words in Twi and then we usually resort to the "we are volunteers - we have no money" spiel. Eventually, it worked. It just took a little extra time on this particular occasion. Thankfully, the driver didn't catch on to the fact that the volunteers with no money were negotiating a cab fare to a luxury beach resort...perfect!
Kelty and I spent one night at this luxury hotel, since the budget guest house down the road was fully booked...shame! We did move to the budget side of things the following night, but the beach was the same, so it made absolutely no difference. For the next two nights, we went to Busua, another beach town about 30 minutes away, where the beach is better for swimming, and surfing. Kelty and I both took a surfing lesson yesterday morning...'fun' is an understatement.
This was the perfect end to an incredible adventure. I am back in Accra now, with only two sleeps left before I take off...still hasn't sunk in yet.
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Thursday, November 19, 2009
something else to share...
I couldn't resist sitting down one more time to share how amazing the rest of my day was. Shortly after my last blog post, I said goodbye to FrankEve. Wow.
150 girls stood before me in one of the outdoor classrooms. They sang a song that they wrote for me - mostly thanking God for the time we shared together. It was very touching. A few girls then got up and made short speeches about me, reducing me to tears, which were met with "Madame don't cry".
And then we danced. And we danced. I have been working on my African dance moves.
And then, they prayed. They prayed for my safe return to Canada and for me to hopefully return again to FrankEve. They also then prayed that I find and marry a God fearing man who will stay with me until I die. Also touching, and thankfully comical as they managed to break the stream of tears that were falling from my face.
And then there was a receiving line, which gave me the opportunity to give/get 150 hugs and shed many more tears. And then I made a speech, or tried, and made a point of including the odd saying in Twi. And that was that - a heartwarming and deeply touching goodbye. I will miss each of those girls dearly.
150 girls stood before me in one of the outdoor classrooms. They sang a song that they wrote for me - mostly thanking God for the time we shared together. It was very touching. A few girls then got up and made short speeches about me, reducing me to tears, which were met with "Madame don't cry".
And then we danced. And we danced. I have been working on my African dance moves.
And then, they prayed. They prayed for my safe return to Canada and for me to hopefully return again to FrankEve. They also then prayed that I find and marry a God fearing man who will stay with me until I die. Also touching, and thankfully comical as they managed to break the stream of tears that were falling from my face.
And then there was a receiving line, which gave me the opportunity to give/get 150 hugs and shed many more tears. And then I made a speech, or tried, and made a point of including the odd saying in Twi. And that was that - a heartwarming and deeply touching goodbye. I will miss each of those girls dearly.
The end is near
My presentation to the Accra Metropolitan Assembly yesterday went very well. I had a lot of fun and I think the audience did too. It was a project that I had been looking forward to since my arrival. I am happy to have it done with now, but it also marks the near ending of my time here.
Today marks my last day at FrankEve. I cannot believe that it is already time to say goodbye to this special place...for now. I will cherish this experience forever.
It is also time to say goodbye to my home stay family. I will see them for the last time after school today and bid them farewell...for now. I will not only be saying goodbye to Philomena and her mother, Kate, and Irene. But I will definitely have to make the most of my last few moments with the four puppies that were born to our (their) dog two nights ago. Amazing. Each is about the size of my hand, and they are the sweetest things I have ever seen.
I will be spending my next week (or just under) travelling some of Ghana's great beaches. I hope to learn how to surf (or at least get up once) and I will be sleeping in a tent on the beach (for part of the time, anyways). It will be the perfect time to really absorb the past seven weeks.
Today marks my last day at FrankEve. I cannot believe that it is already time to say goodbye to this special place...for now. I will cherish this experience forever.
It is also time to say goodbye to my home stay family. I will see them for the last time after school today and bid them farewell...for now. I will not only be saying goodbye to Philomena and her mother, Kate, and Irene. But I will definitely have to make the most of my last few moments with the four puppies that were born to our (their) dog two nights ago. Amazing. Each is about the size of my hand, and they are the sweetest things I have ever seen.
I will be spending my next week (or just under) travelling some of Ghana's great beaches. I hope to learn how to surf (or at least get up once) and I will be sleeping in a tent on the beach (for part of the time, anyways). It will be the perfect time to really absorb the past seven weeks.
Monday, November 16, 2009
It's good to be home
I have just arrived back in Swedru after an awesome slash awful weekend of travels...
Early Friday morning (like 4:36 early) I left my home to catch a bus to Kumasi. After 6 painful hours sitting next to a man and his two children (all of whom somehow got away with only purchasing one ticket) I arrived in Kumasi (should be more appropriately named the craziest city on earth). I told the driver that I needed to catch a tro tro from Kumasi to Nsuta (a small town about an hour and a half away), and drivers are usually great about dropping you where you need to be. But on this occasion, not so much. A few minutes after I let him know where I needed to be, he stopped the bus, opened the doors, and threw me out (he could not have ushered me out any faster if he had drop kicked me to the street!). So alone I stood on the side of the road in the craziest city on earth. Luckily for me, it turns out to maybe be the friendliest as well. I simply turned around, looked at a man and told him where I needed to be. He proceeded to walk me the 20 minutes that it took to get me to the station. He then asked another man to take me to my exact departure area in the station. Whoever you guys are, medaase (thank you!).
Once at the station, I went to buy my ticket. "I go to Nsuta", I said. And everyone within earshot responded with "Why?", or "Are you sure?", or "Have you been there before?". Sigh. Nsuta is a very small town, with no running water, probably a twentieth the size of Swedru. So it's no wonder people were wondering why an Obruni such as myself might want to venture there. But this was the destination of our latest weekend excursion. A weekend in rural Africa. And it was an amazing weekend (slash awful, but I'll get to that part later).
When I arrived, I met up with Kelty (another volunteer who lives in Nsuta) at her apartment, and we caught up while waiting for the other volunteers. When they arrived, we had a spaghetti dinner on the rooftop of Kelty's building and then headed to a nearby nightclub (place with plastic tables and chairs) to relax. We stayed for a short while, but just like most other nights these days, I was back at the guesthouse and tucked into bed by 9:00 p.m.
The next day we were up early for a hike up Prayer Mountain. Beautiful. It is a holy place where people go to pray. They will sleep in camps on the mountain for days at a time. And while our team was huffing and puffing up the trail, we were repeatedly passed by small boys carrying parcels on their heads, running uphill in flip flops (note to self: need gym membership when I get home). After the mountain, we went to visit a nearby shrine where they practice witchcraft...very interesting. We finished the day learning how to make groundnut cake (peanut brittle) at someone's home in Nsuta. And then we ate it, of course!
The next morning we got a lesson in carrying water on our heads from the river. Because there is NO running water in Nsuta, to shower, cook, clean etc. you must fetch it from the stream. It was a great lesson of gratitude (and an equally great workout!). On our way back to Kumasi from Nsuta, we stopped at a cloth making factory and learned about African symbols and cloth prints.
Once in Kumasi, we had lunch and then headed to a soccer game (wow!). This is the awful part. I had just (earlier that day) raised about $200 for the school at which I'm volunteering. It's a part of a project that I've initiated with them (details soon). Unfortunately, on my way into the soccer game, all of the money I raised was stolen right out from under my nose. In the split second it took for me to hand my ticket to the guy at the gate (which required me to take my hand off the front of my purse), someone's sticky fingers opened my zipper and pulled out all of the money. Devastating. A set back for the project, both emotionally and financially, but we are back on track and moving forward...
I stayed in Accra last night, and came back to Swedru this afternoon. It really is good to be home. I am going back to Accra tomorrow in advance of my presentation to the General Assembly (which is taking place on Wednesday morning), and I will be back to Swedru once more for Thursday (my last day). I am trying to soak up my last moments here. It will be hard to leave this place...very hard.
Early Friday morning (like 4:36 early) I left my home to catch a bus to Kumasi. After 6 painful hours sitting next to a man and his two children (all of whom somehow got away with only purchasing one ticket) I arrived in Kumasi (should be more appropriately named the craziest city on earth). I told the driver that I needed to catch a tro tro from Kumasi to Nsuta (a small town about an hour and a half away), and drivers are usually great about dropping you where you need to be. But on this occasion, not so much. A few minutes after I let him know where I needed to be, he stopped the bus, opened the doors, and threw me out (he could not have ushered me out any faster if he had drop kicked me to the street!). So alone I stood on the side of the road in the craziest city on earth. Luckily for me, it turns out to maybe be the friendliest as well. I simply turned around, looked at a man and told him where I needed to be. He proceeded to walk me the 20 minutes that it took to get me to the station. He then asked another man to take me to my exact departure area in the station. Whoever you guys are, medaase (thank you!).
Once at the station, I went to buy my ticket. "I go to Nsuta", I said. And everyone within earshot responded with "Why?", or "Are you sure?", or "Have you been there before?". Sigh. Nsuta is a very small town, with no running water, probably a twentieth the size of Swedru. So it's no wonder people were wondering why an Obruni such as myself might want to venture there. But this was the destination of our latest weekend excursion. A weekend in rural Africa. And it was an amazing weekend (slash awful, but I'll get to that part later).
When I arrived, I met up with Kelty (another volunteer who lives in Nsuta) at her apartment, and we caught up while waiting for the other volunteers. When they arrived, we had a spaghetti dinner on the rooftop of Kelty's building and then headed to a nearby nightclub (place with plastic tables and chairs) to relax. We stayed for a short while, but just like most other nights these days, I was back at the guesthouse and tucked into bed by 9:00 p.m.
The next day we were up early for a hike up Prayer Mountain. Beautiful. It is a holy place where people go to pray. They will sleep in camps on the mountain for days at a time. And while our team was huffing and puffing up the trail, we were repeatedly passed by small boys carrying parcels on their heads, running uphill in flip flops (note to self: need gym membership when I get home). After the mountain, we went to visit a nearby shrine where they practice witchcraft...very interesting. We finished the day learning how to make groundnut cake (peanut brittle) at someone's home in Nsuta. And then we ate it, of course!
The next morning we got a lesson in carrying water on our heads from the river. Because there is NO running water in Nsuta, to shower, cook, clean etc. you must fetch it from the stream. It was a great lesson of gratitude (and an equally great workout!). On our way back to Kumasi from Nsuta, we stopped at a cloth making factory and learned about African symbols and cloth prints.
Once in Kumasi, we had lunch and then headed to a soccer game (wow!). This is the awful part. I had just (earlier that day) raised about $200 for the school at which I'm volunteering. It's a part of a project that I've initiated with them (details soon). Unfortunately, on my way into the soccer game, all of the money I raised was stolen right out from under my nose. In the split second it took for me to hand my ticket to the guy at the gate (which required me to take my hand off the front of my purse), someone's sticky fingers opened my zipper and pulled out all of the money. Devastating. A set back for the project, both emotionally and financially, but we are back on track and moving forward...
I stayed in Accra last night, and came back to Swedru this afternoon. It really is good to be home. I am going back to Accra tomorrow in advance of my presentation to the General Assembly (which is taking place on Wednesday morning), and I will be back to Swedru once more for Thursday (my last day). I am trying to soak up my last moments here. It will be hard to leave this place...very hard.
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Family Matters
One of the hardest parts of living with a family, is the fact that I am not really part of the family. I am working on finding the delicate balance between integrating into the family and minding my own damn business!
This morning, for example, little Kate told Philomena (her grandmother) that the eggs we had for breakfast were too salty. I did not know she had said this because she did not say it in English (they speak Fanti). I was then asked by Philomena if I thought the eggs were too salty, to which I obviously said no (it was true - but I probably would not have said otherwise even if they had been too salty). After a few more words were exchanged in Fanti, little Kate's eyes began to well up, and she worked hard to hold back her tears at the table. Irene explained to me that Kate was told that if she complained about the food again, she would be punished. This may all sound trivial to those of you back home, but punishment in Africa is no small matter (going well beyond the "time-outs" we dole out back home).
As I watched this little girl (whom I have fallen deeply in love with) fall apart over salty eggs, I worked hard to hold back tears of my own. I did not want to overstep my boundaries by going over to hug her, since I did not want to interfere in these so-called family matters. Irene also explained to me that you should not hug or hold people who are crying. They need to be alone, or they will begin to cry more. BUT, I was thinking, I need a hug! Thankfully, Kate's tears dried up before we headed off to school this morning, but it broke my heart to watch her cry.
It reminded me of an incident last week when Irene expressed that she did not want to eat Banku (the meal that had been prepared for the family) for dinner. She told Philomena that she would prefer to eat something like rice (which is what I was eating - I don't always eat the same food as the family). For this, Irene was told she could have no dinner at all, and not surprisingly, she began to cry. On this occasion, I was not so disciplined, and I offered her my dinner as consolation. She graciously declined my offer, but I realized later, that given the fact that she was being punished, I had probably overstepped. Sigh.
Of course, I should say that the home I am in is a very loving and happy one. Crying and punishment are not common occurrences. I am only commenting on my recent personal experience that stems, for the most part, from the fact that I am living with a family that is not mine.
To that end, there have been some wonderful moments that we have shared together that have made me so happy to be in a home stay. Last evening, Irene, Kate and Philomena taught me how to roast dried corn kernels over the fire to make the cornmeal we eat for breakfast. We also ended up getting some popcorn out of it, since some of the kernels stayed on the fire for too long (no complaints there!). I also brought Kate a book this weekend - a Franklin book, since it was her 8th birthday on Saturday. Last night, she crept into my room, hopped on my bed, and snuggled up to me so that I could read it to her. It was a treat for both of us. And I awoke this morning to realize how much I will miss this family when I leave them in just over one week.
This morning, for example, little Kate told Philomena (her grandmother) that the eggs we had for breakfast were too salty. I did not know she had said this because she did not say it in English (they speak Fanti). I was then asked by Philomena if I thought the eggs were too salty, to which I obviously said no (it was true - but I probably would not have said otherwise even if they had been too salty). After a few more words were exchanged in Fanti, little Kate's eyes began to well up, and she worked hard to hold back her tears at the table. Irene explained to me that Kate was told that if she complained about the food again, she would be punished. This may all sound trivial to those of you back home, but punishment in Africa is no small matter (going well beyond the "time-outs" we dole out back home).
As I watched this little girl (whom I have fallen deeply in love with) fall apart over salty eggs, I worked hard to hold back tears of my own. I did not want to overstep my boundaries by going over to hug her, since I did not want to interfere in these so-called family matters. Irene also explained to me that you should not hug or hold people who are crying. They need to be alone, or they will begin to cry more. BUT, I was thinking, I need a hug! Thankfully, Kate's tears dried up before we headed off to school this morning, but it broke my heart to watch her cry.
It reminded me of an incident last week when Irene expressed that she did not want to eat Banku (the meal that had been prepared for the family) for dinner. She told Philomena that she would prefer to eat something like rice (which is what I was eating - I don't always eat the same food as the family). For this, Irene was told she could have no dinner at all, and not surprisingly, she began to cry. On this occasion, I was not so disciplined, and I offered her my dinner as consolation. She graciously declined my offer, but I realized later, that given the fact that she was being punished, I had probably overstepped. Sigh.
Of course, I should say that the home I am in is a very loving and happy one. Crying and punishment are not common occurrences. I am only commenting on my recent personal experience that stems, for the most part, from the fact that I am living with a family that is not mine.
To that end, there have been some wonderful moments that we have shared together that have made me so happy to be in a home stay. Last evening, Irene, Kate and Philomena taught me how to roast dried corn kernels over the fire to make the cornmeal we eat for breakfast. We also ended up getting some popcorn out of it, since some of the kernels stayed on the fire for too long (no complaints there!). I also brought Kate a book this weekend - a Franklin book, since it was her 8th birthday on Saturday. Last night, she crept into my room, hopped on my bed, and snuggled up to me so that I could read it to her. It was a treat for both of us. And I awoke this morning to realize how much I will miss this family when I leave them in just over one week.
Monday, November 9, 2009
Weekend in Cape Coast
On Friday morning I left my home in Swedru to meet the rest of the volunteers in Cape Coast. I arrived early, since Swedru is closer to Cape than Accra. I spent some time exploring the areas in close proximity to our guesthouse, and then took a stroll down to the ocean. Once the rest of the group arrived, we headed out for dinner to a place by Cape Coast Castle and after that to a local bar.
The following morning we were up much too early to head into a forest reservoir for a canopy walk. It was a great opportunity for me to face my fear of heights and of less than acceptable safety standards. But fears (and joking) aside, the view was gorgeous!
After the canopy walk, we headed to a place called Hans Cottage for lunch, where we were able to see (and pet) live crocodiles. The very idea of this made me uneasy (it made the canopy walk look like the safest activity on earth), but I figured it could not be any worse than having the snake around my neck during orientation week. And so, after everyone had taken their turn petting the croc, mine was up. And just as I went to touch him, he started thrashing (read: moved his leg slightly), and sent me into a fit of sheer panic. Entertaining for the group, horrifying for me. Next time I'll pass on the picture opp with the reptiles.
After lunch we headed to Cape Coast Castle. It was good to finally do some historical sightseeing and to learn about the significance of Cape Coast as a slave trade port. We had a tour of the dungeons, a holding cell and several other rooms in the castle. A very informative, but chilling experience.
Sunday morning we headed to a beach resort and spent the day relaxing in the sun. It was the perfect conclusion to another great excursion. I always love the weekends away, but this one was especially sweet, as I had been missing the group since I left them last week.
I returned home to Swedru on my own late last night. I hate being out after dark due to the obvious death-by-snake-bite factor. I am sure you can imagine my relief (read: horror) when I got home and found out that a snake had been spotted around our house over the weekend. Great. And as if I wasn't scared enough, this morning I found out that one of our chickens was killed last night by said snake. Really great.
The following morning we were up much too early to head into a forest reservoir for a canopy walk. It was a great opportunity for me to face my fear of heights and of less than acceptable safety standards. But fears (and joking) aside, the view was gorgeous!
After the canopy walk, we headed to a place called Hans Cottage for lunch, where we were able to see (and pet) live crocodiles. The very idea of this made me uneasy (it made the canopy walk look like the safest activity on earth), but I figured it could not be any worse than having the snake around my neck during orientation week. And so, after everyone had taken their turn petting the croc, mine was up. And just as I went to touch him, he started thrashing (read: moved his leg slightly), and sent me into a fit of sheer panic. Entertaining for the group, horrifying for me. Next time I'll pass on the picture opp with the reptiles.
After lunch we headed to Cape Coast Castle. It was good to finally do some historical sightseeing and to learn about the significance of Cape Coast as a slave trade port. We had a tour of the dungeons, a holding cell and several other rooms in the castle. A very informative, but chilling experience.
Sunday morning we headed to a beach resort and spent the day relaxing in the sun. It was the perfect conclusion to another great excursion. I always love the weekends away, but this one was especially sweet, as I had been missing the group since I left them last week.
I returned home to Swedru on my own late last night. I hate being out after dark due to the obvious death-by-snake-bite factor. I am sure you can imagine my relief (read: horror) when I got home and found out that a snake had been spotted around our house over the weekend. Great. And as if I wasn't scared enough, this morning I found out that one of our chickens was killed last night by said snake. Really great.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Life in Swedru
I arrived in Swedru on Sunday afternoon, where I was greeted by my homestay mother with open arms (literally). Her name is Philomina, and she is a very sweet woman (and luckily for me, an excellent cook!). I also met her mother, and her two nieces, Kate and Irene. In addition to these wonderful ladies, I also live with a pregnant dog, three kittens (who've lost their mom), many chickens, countless goats, and more insects than I would like. We live in a small home about 500 metres away from any main road, but within close reach to everything we need. In the mornings, Kate and Irene wait outside my room for me to wake up. When I finally surface (around 6am - about an hour after they get up), I am greeted with enthusiastic hugs and giggles!
My shower is located outside and consists of a bucket with water in it. Yesterday I successfully undertook the showering challenge for the first time (actually quite refreshing). The washroom is also outside, so I generally avoid drinking water for the two hours before I go to bed (since I am convinced I will be bitten by a viper snake if I go outside at night).
The main mode of transportation here is shared taxis. You just find one going in the right direction and hop in. Every trip costs approximately $0.22. I have to take two taxis to get to school, taking approximately 20 minutes, a welcome change from the commute to school in Accra. I have also found some convenient internet cafes (hence the blog update).
I spend my days at the FrankEve Human Development Foundation, and I began teaching yesterday. I am teaching entrepreneurship, and am also helping to update the organization's website (www.frankevefoundation.org). My students range from19 to 26 years of age, and I am teaching four different classes. So far, it has been a wonderful experience. I spend my evenings relaxing with my family. Last night I helped Irene with her math homework while Kate entertained herself playing with my hair.
I have a lot of alone time here, but it has been a nice change. Tomorrow, and every Wednesday, there is an Obruni meeting (foreigner meeting) in town, so I will venture out to meet some new people. And on Thursday two friends from Accra will come to stay with me for one night before we meet the whole group in Cape Coast for a weekend excursion!
My shower is located outside and consists of a bucket with water in it. Yesterday I successfully undertook the showering challenge for the first time (actually quite refreshing). The washroom is also outside, so I generally avoid drinking water for the two hours before I go to bed (since I am convinced I will be bitten by a viper snake if I go outside at night).
The main mode of transportation here is shared taxis. You just find one going in the right direction and hop in. Every trip costs approximately $0.22. I have to take two taxis to get to school, taking approximately 20 minutes, a welcome change from the commute to school in Accra. I have also found some convenient internet cafes (hence the blog update).
I spend my days at the FrankEve Human Development Foundation, and I began teaching yesterday. I am teaching entrepreneurship, and am also helping to update the organization's website (www.frankevefoundation.org). My students range from19 to 26 years of age, and I am teaching four different classes. So far, it has been a wonderful experience. I spend my evenings relaxing with my family. Last night I helped Irene with her math homework while Kate entertained herself playing with my hair.
I have a lot of alone time here, but it has been a nice change. Tomorrow, and every Wednesday, there is an Obruni meeting (foreigner meeting) in town, so I will venture out to meet some new people. And on Thursday two friends from Accra will come to stay with me for one night before we meet the whole group in Cape Coast for a weekend excursion!
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