Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Life in Swedru

I arrived in Swedru on Sunday afternoon, where I was greeted by my homestay mother with open arms (literally).  Her name is Philomina, and she is a very sweet woman (and luckily for me, an excellent cook!).  I also met her mother, and her two nieces, Kate and Irene.  In addition to these wonderful ladies, I also live with a pregnant dog, three kittens (who've lost their mom), many chickens, countless goats, and more insects than I would like.  We live in a small home about 500 metres away from any main road, but within close reach to everything we need.  In the mornings, Kate and Irene wait outside my room for me to wake up.  When I finally surface (around 6am - about an hour after they get up), I am greeted with enthusiastic hugs and giggles!

My shower is located outside and consists of a bucket with water in it.  Yesterday I successfully undertook the showering challenge for the first time (actually quite refreshing).  The washroom is also outside, so I generally avoid drinking water for the two hours before I go to bed (since I am convinced I will be bitten by a viper snake if I go outside at night).

The main mode of transportation here is shared taxis.  You just find one going in the right direction and hop in.  Every trip costs approximately $0.22.  I have to take two taxis to get to school, taking approximately 20 minutes, a welcome change from the commute to school in Accra.  I have also found some convenient internet cafes (hence the blog update).

I spend my days at the FrankEve Human Development Foundation, and I began teaching yesterday.  I am teaching entrepreneurship, and am also helping to update the organization's website (www.frankevefoundation.org).  My students range from19 to 26 years of age, and I am teaching four different classes.  So far, it has been a wonderful experience. I spend my evenings relaxing with my family.  Last night I helped Irene with her math homework while Kate entertained herself playing with my hair. 

I have a lot of alone time here, but it has been a nice change.  Tomorrow, and every Wednesday, there is an Obruni meeting (foreigner meeting) in town, so I will venture out to meet some new people. And on Thursday two friends from Accra will come to stay with me for one night before we meet the whole group in Cape Coast for a weekend excursion! 

Saturday, October 31, 2009

In To Africa

I set out tomorrow to conquer some fears and fulfill some dreams in the small town of Swedru.  Swedru is approximately one and a half hours west of Accra towards Cape Coast.  I will be living with a family - a mother, a grandmother, and two young girls (Kate and Irene).  They will be my new family for the next three weeks as I embark on the latest and bravest part of my adventure in Africa.  Among some of my most primary challenges will be the washroom and water situation.  The washroom is outside.  It is a pit toilet.  And my showers will consist of me and a bucket of water. 

I have had time now to prepare myself for these challenges, and I expect that they will be the least of what I will face while living in a rural community.  But I am looking forward to what new and unexpected hurdles this experience has to offer.  If the past month has taught me anything, it is the strength this is born of any struggle.  And I am ready.  Or at least ready to try.  To accept whatever Swedru has to offer me.

I will likely have limited access to internet while I am there, but will hope to continue my updates at least on a weekly basis.  In the meantime, I have posted some recent pictures to facebook, links included below.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=129236&id=505995946
http://www.facebook.com/photos.php?id=505995946#/album.php?aid=129042&id=505995946
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/album.php?aid=129045&id=505995946&ref=mf
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/album.php?aid=128900&id=505995946

Monday, October 26, 2009

warthogs and antelope and monkeys...oh my

No lions, nor tigers, nor bears (although we weren't expecting those anyways)...but sadly, no elephants either. 

On Thursday morning we left on a 16 hour trip to get to Mole National Park.  When we arrived, it was raining, and the rain persisted for the duration of our stay.  This is the reason we were given for the fact that we didn't see any elephants.  Our guesthouse was perched over the elephant watering hole, and they are frequently spotted drinking and bathing there.  However, because of the rain, they were wet enough, and didn't pay us a visit! 

Despite the lack of elephants, we still had a great weekend away.  Road trips are always a source of good bonding for our volunteer group, and this one was extra long!  We also saw a few other species of animals.  We also saw many antelope and tons of monkeys!  And when we checked into our guesthouse we found warthogs grazing in front of our hotel rooms (picture of me looking frightened to come soon!).  And of course, there are always lots of creepy crawly insects for our enjoyment!  On our way home, we broke up the long journey with a stop at Kintampo Falls to see the beautiful waterfalls, and cool off from the heat. 

Our next weekend trip is not for a couple of weeks, when the group will head to Cape Coast.  By that time, I will be living in Swedru, and will meet them there on the Friday night.  For now, I am spending this week enjoying running water and toilets...two things I will be sad to say goodbye to when I depart on Sunday!

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Teaching and unlearning

I spent the last two days teaching classes on HIV and STIs. This is a subject of critical relevance in Ghana, and it felt amazing to participate in the progress that is being made here. I absolutely love teaching.  The children in my classes are amazing.  Many of them have learned about hardship early in life, but they continue show up for themselves each and every day.  I have been deeply moved by these children and their stories.  And although I am their teacher, they have taught me so much (corny? maybe...but true nonetheless).  I am learning so much...or rather, unlearning.  I am unlearning what I thought were the ways of the world;  I am unlearning what I thought a long day looked like;  I am unlearning what I thought it meant to work hard.  And for this I am grateful. 

And in the spirit of my unlearning, I have decided to embark on a new adventure.  Beginning the week after next, I will be moving to a new teaching placement, in rural Ghana.  I will be leaving the basecamp and heading to Swedru, a small town a couple of hours away from Accra.  In Swedru, I will be living with a family, and teaching at the FrankEve Human Development Foundation http://www.frankevefoundation.org/.  I will be there for three weeks, and I am ready for the new challenges that this opportunity will bring.

In the meantime, there is lots going on before I go.  Tomorrow I will make my way to northern Ghana for a walking safari in Mole National Park.  We are likely to see elephants, crocodiles and monkeys, among other wildlife species!   Details to follow once I'm back next week.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

"young woman's bladder ruptures after tarantula spotting"

Okay...so my  bladder didn't actually rupture, and the spider wasn't really a tarantula, but if the small village in which I found myself on Thursday night had a local newspaper, the headline would have read something like that! 

This weekend I found my inner arachnophobia (read: princess), while roughing it in the African countryside.  This 'phobia' had been so well suppressed for the past two weeks, that I almost thought I had been cured of it...but apparently if the spider is big enough, it can cause a relapse!  On Thursday evening, as I was heading into the washroom ('washroom' is a generous word for what was a small room with a floor and a drain), I spotted an enormous spider on the wall.  It was basically a tarantula, except that it wasn't.  It was terrifying.  I insisted on holding my bladder and proceeding to panic...for a little (read: long) while.  I did eventually pee in the bushes, which were probably more spider ridden, but I am now a firm believer that what you don't know (or see) can't hurt you!

Other than the spider 'incident', the weekend was incredible. That first night, the local children of the village put on a drumming and dancing show for us - what talent!  Afterwards, we went to sleep - eight of us in one room, on the floor (on bamboo mats).  It was definitely a bonding experience!  The next day, we visited the local school - it is being assessed for the possibility of future teaching placements.  The challenges of getting volunteers there and overcoming the language barrier were very evident.

We spent the second night on the beach staying in small huts - a beach camp called Maranatha!  It was a piece of paradise so remote, untouched, and beautiful...it is the most serene place I have ever been, and I'm definitely going back there before I leave.  The white sand beach was surrounded by water - a river on one side, and the ocean on the other.  If you walked far enough on the island, you could see the estuary where they meet.  It was an absolute dream.  Pictures to come shortly...

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Madame Danielle

That is what my students call me: "Madame Danielle".  Well actually, it sounds more like Madame Janelle, Madam Tania...and most of the time it's Madame Daniel.  I am experiencing slight resentment towards my parents for this name that is apparently impossible to pronounce if you have a Ghanaian accent!  But never mind...what's more important, is that I taught my first class yesterday!  It was very basic, and it was my opportunity to survey the skills of the students.  I asked them to write me an essay about their favourite food.  Wow, these kids are creative.  My favourite essay was written by a little boy who told me that rice and stew makes him feel like a hero!  I am starting to realize that teachers must find endless entertainment in their students.  I sure am, and I have only taught one class.  So far, so good!

Getting to school is, unfortunately, not nearly as fun as being at school.  It takes two hours!  It's only 30 minutes away by car (without traffic).  So that should tell you about the kind of traffic we have here, not to mention the high probability that the car in which you start your journey will break down along the way!  This is one of the reasons why I'm really looking forward to my upcoming trip to the country.  We leave this afternoon for four days in a place called Adah Foa.  It is a small fishing village about three hours from here.  It will be my first look at rural Africa. I am looking forward to getting away from the hustle and bustle of the city (so much, that I am voluntarily sleeping on the floor tonight in a lodge).  I am hoping not to get eaten by a tarantula (that's not meant as a joke - it's really my only fear about being here!).

Monday, October 12, 2009

what a wonderful weekend

I had a fantastic weekend.  Not only because my beautiful nephew was born (although that's a big part of it), but also because I am finally starting to feel settled.  The amazing race really showed us how independent we are in this daunting city, and I have finally started moving around on my own!

Saturday night we were invited to the birthday party of a friend of someone that works for our volunteer organization.  It was in a beautiful home in a very affluent part of the city - it was immaculate.  There was great food, music, and dancing.  It was an awesome party (and I was secretly celebrating Jack's birthday!).

Yesterday was very low key.  We spent time lounging around the basecamp, relaxing and getting ready for our first day of school, which was today.  I had a great time meeting the teachers today and the students are vibrant and very welcoming.  We were introduced to the 9 classes that are at the school where we will be teaching, and we spent the afternoon grading some essays about why cheating is bad.  They were very entertaining, and it was a great way to ease into the teaching role.  Real classroom time begins tomorrow, and I'm really looking forward to it.

Other than that, life here is starting to present itself as normal for me.  I am past most of the culture shock I experienced last week, and am really able to enjoy Ghana for what it has to offer.